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Keith
de Lellis Gallery is
pleased to announce an exhibition of fashion photography by George
Hoyningen-Huene. From February 17 through April 16, the
gallery will feature vintage prints from the last decade of the
artist's career at Harper's
Bazaar.
George
Hoyningen-Huene (1900-1968) is one of the great names in 20th
century photography. His oeuvre spans a legendary career that
evolved by way of Paris in the
twenties up to his final days in Hollywood
four decades later. He made his reputation as
the chief photographer for Vogue
starting in 1926, and his exceptional gift for the visual brought
him to the pinnacle of his profession. In
Paris , he became
as famous as the world-renowned artists and celebrities that posed
for his camera. Elegant, dramatically lit photographs of languorous
models posed in ultra-chic designer fashions, was his signature
style.
In 1935,
Huene left Vogue defecting to the competition. For
the next ten years, he photographed exclusively for Harper's
Bazaar alongside editors Alexey Brodovitch and Carmel Snow,
although he continued to work for the magazine's
Paris division.
He eventually relocated to New York
as did many expatriate artists who escaped to
America
before World War II.
Huene's
later fashion photographs were often markedly different from his
universally recognized minimalist conceptions. Harper's Bazaar
in the 1940s, catered to a younger, more active woman, which was
a critical element of the storylines. Huene's sensitivity to the
upscale lives of the magazine's readership was formalized by depictions
of romantic glamorized social affairs. The gloomier aspects of current
events were not ignored, but simply made more palatable. Pairing
stunning models with handsome men in military uniforms glamorized
the cold fact that
America was also at war.
While
other contemporary fashion photographers such as Martin Munkasci
and Louise
Dahl-Wolfe were forging a trend for on-location images made
in natural settings, Hoyningen Huene's approach remained traditional.
Huene achieved a signature style by crafting studio sets that recreated
the ambience of trendy restaurants, fancy apartments, and intimate
parties through innovative lighting techniques and elaborate props.
The deft choreography of model poses infused his imagery with an
amorous mood that was nothing short of magical.
Huene's
images were the pinnacle of modernist American aesthetic which had
its genesis in both the advertising and motion picture industries.
It is no surprise that Huene's retirement from the world of fashion
photography led him to
Hollywood in 1945. He referred to his position
as a color coordinator; but today, he would be heralded as an art
director.
While
many of Huene's images have been the subject of books and exhibitions,
his later years as a fashion photographer have rarely been exhibited.
Archived by Hans Jorgenson, Huene's studio assistant, the prints
on view here for the first time, provide a glimpse of a rarely seen
aspect of an artist with an extensive and varied history, while
also reflecting the ephemeral nature of commercial photography. |